Time to wrap up January. I’m currently on my last leg back to Colby…. Flying from DC to Portland. It’s been a crazy last two weeks, as probably illuded to by my lack of postings. We spent both weeks at Mkoma Full Primary School, the primary school located right next to Mchezi CBO that we’ve worked with extensively in the past. Days were once again full of teaching. Reinier and I worked with the teachers at Mkoma, but it was tough because they could only gather from 11am-1pm, which was always during our empowerment sections which meant no observation. So we focused more on discussions and activities than watching WC teachers and their interactive methods. While I think this was sometimes beneficial, it was often difficult to talk about the benefits of discussions, games, and science experiments without seeing them in action. It was also rough that the teachers didn’t hear all of the basic facts about HIV in those lessons, so discussions were sometimes sidetracked by lessons on exactly what a t-cell is and why the immune system is important.
Homestay these two weeks was fun. The girls stayed with the headmaster of Mkoma and his family. The headmaster himself was super busy so we rarely saw him. His wife was wonderful although it took a good bit of work to convince her we wanted to help with chores. We cooked dinner one night (but didn’t finished until 9pm), started a fire, and cleaned our own rooms. We couldn’t convince her to let us help with dishes or the cleaning she normally did during the day. The family also really liked to give us our space, which made interactions difficult. They ate dinner in a separate room after us every night but two, when we insisted they eat with us. The kids were incredibly shy and would walk really quickly through any room we were in. We finally got Happy, the 18-year-old boy, talking our last day because we’d attended a church service with him the night before. He wants to be a preacher and is really passionate about Christianity.
The church service itself was unlike any service I’ve been to before. I think it was just the prayer group that was meeting, not the entire congregation. There were about 8 Malawians who attend extra meetings Monday, Wednesday, and Friday nights for a few hours. We joined their numbers in song and dance. Twice during the hour or so we were there, the group broke up so that people could pray individually. Those from Mchezi paced, yelled, swayed, hit the walls, and lay on the floor. The rest of us prayed in ways I’d seen before: bowed heads, kneeling at a pew, and always silently. The energy in the room was phenomenal but I was incredibly unprepared for the format.
And now it’s Feb. 12, I’ve been back at school for just under two weeks now and am still trying to get back into the swing of college life. Funny story. One of the interns from January was actually in the DC airport with me, somehow we hadn’t realized it before. So we ended up hanging out for about an hour near my gate. It was great to look through some pictures together and start to process the month. Then I finished my trip home and finally got back to Colby.
We wrapped up the session in typical fashion at the lake, complete with our trip to Lake Malawi. We had a bonfire, ate yummy grilled cheese sandwiches, and read by the water.
Now I’m just looking forward to graduation, summer sessions, and living in Malawi! The plan right now is to do some year-round programming for World Camp. I’ll hopefully work on sustainable aspects of our program, things like continuous support for the World Camp Clubs we set up, testing to see if kids remember what they learned a few months after our regular program, setting up project menus so professional volunteers can complete a project that will really support preexisting efforts of CBOs and schools instead of planning what they’re interested in, and working with our Malawian staff to place them in year-round and bigger roles in our programming. Needless to say, I’m super excited and can’t wait for May!
Showing posts with label Malawi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malawi. Show all posts
Sunday, February 12, 2012
Monday, January 16, 2012
Safari and Mchezi... what a life!
Safari was a blast. We saw lions, a leopard, so many hyena, too many genets, hares, new birds, hippos, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, and elephants. Now it’s off to Mchezi for 4 days in one of my favorite villages.
Again, check worldcampforkids.blogspot.com to see an intern’s posts from last week!
Again, check worldcampforkids.blogspot.com to see an intern’s posts from last week!
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Take the Bad with the Good
So this week I worked with two wonderful teachers for four days at Chimutu Full Primary School. I thought we had a great time, and we did. We talked about some really serious issues and debated everything from gender roles to teaching methods. We also talked about our families, personal goals, and present realities. The standard 7 teachers assured me they would continue to teach what they’d learned with World Camp this week.
But today, after getting home after our final day, one of our translators told me the teachers thought I didn’t care about them. They had wanted to be paid for their time but weren’t. They were upset I hadn’t checked in with the headteacher every morning when we arrived and every afternoon when we left. They also wanted me to update him on our daily activities. (In my defense, they pointed this out to me on the second day and I checked in every time after that but he never asked about our activities and I never told him). They also thought I served them Sobo from the same cups we used for our deforestation demonstrations, the same cups that hundreds of kids have touched and sit on the dirt floor of every classroom they’re used in.
Yet they told me none of this. They didn’t ask me for money (which I wouldn’t have given but would gladly have explained why we didn’t provide a stipend), they went to a Field Staff. They didn’t tell me they’d wanted me to keep the headmaster up-to-date on our program. They didn’t ask whether the cups were the same or not, they just assumed. And they concluded I hadn’t respected them enough to bring clean cups for Sobo.
But today, after getting home after our final day, one of our translators told me the teachers thought I didn’t care about them. They had wanted to be paid for their time but weren’t. They were upset I hadn’t checked in with the headteacher every morning when we arrived and every afternoon when we left. They also wanted me to update him on our daily activities. (In my defense, they pointed this out to me on the second day and I checked in every time after that but he never asked about our activities and I never told him). They also thought I served them Sobo from the same cups we used for our deforestation demonstrations, the same cups that hundreds of kids have touched and sit on the dirt floor of every classroom they’re used in.
Yet they told me none of this. They didn’t ask me for money (which I wouldn’t have given but would gladly have explained why we didn’t provide a stipend), they went to a Field Staff. They didn’t tell me they’d wanted me to keep the headmaster up-to-date on our program. They didn’t ask whether the cups were the same or not, they just assumed. And they concluded I hadn’t respected them enough to bring clean cups for Sobo.
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
Yesterday, I made a differnce
Yesterday, I was finally back in a classroom after two years of purely coordinating. I, along with Reinier, held a teacher meeting with the two standard 7 teachers at Chimutu Full Primary School. Martha and Ms. Madala are wonderful ladies. They were interested in what we had to say and very impressed with the interactive activities we used to demonstrate topics they’re required to teach by the Malawian government.
For the first time ever, a teacher I was working with agreed to practice our sections for the rest of our group. After I reviewed a lesson she’d just observed in the classroom, Martha stood in front of Reinier, Ms. Madala, and myself and drew the outline of an imaginary character on the board named Johnny. After describing him briefly, she drew Ts throughout his body to represent t-cells, or “soldiers of the body” that are part of the immune system and work to fight off illnesses.
She talked about the fact that as a healthly boy, Johnny had more than 1,000 t-cells in every drop of blood in his body. Once he contracted HIV, however, the virus would begin to kill Johnny’s t-cells. She drew a circle over one of the Ts and continued to do so, describing how the added circles represented HIV’s destruction of Johnny’s immune system. HIV would be detectable once Johnny had less than 1,000 t-cells in every drop of blood, Martha explained.
She continued to color over the Ts until there were only one or two remaining, when she explained that Johnny now had AIDS. That meant that he had less than 350 t-cells in every drop of blood. His immune system was so weak Johnny’s body would be unable to fight off even simple illnesses such as the cough or diarrhea. Eventually, Johnny would die from AIDS.
Martha explained that although she taught her class about HIV in the government’s prescribed Life Skills curriculum, she’d never heard of t-cells. She assured Reinier, Ms. Madala, and myself that she would continue to use diagrams and detailed explains as she continued to teach her future students about AIDS.
Yesterday, I met two teachers at Chimutu FPS.
Yesterday, I empowered a teacher.
Yesterday, I impacted every single one of Martha Mkonkholo’s future students.
For the first time ever, a teacher I was working with agreed to practice our sections for the rest of our group. After I reviewed a lesson she’d just observed in the classroom, Martha stood in front of Reinier, Ms. Madala, and myself and drew the outline of an imaginary character on the board named Johnny. After describing him briefly, she drew Ts throughout his body to represent t-cells, or “soldiers of the body” that are part of the immune system and work to fight off illnesses.
She talked about the fact that as a healthly boy, Johnny had more than 1,000 t-cells in every drop of blood in his body. Once he contracted HIV, however, the virus would begin to kill Johnny’s t-cells. She drew a circle over one of the Ts and continued to do so, describing how the added circles represented HIV’s destruction of Johnny’s immune system. HIV would be detectable once Johnny had less than 1,000 t-cells in every drop of blood, Martha explained.
She continued to color over the Ts until there were only one or two remaining, when she explained that Johnny now had AIDS. That meant that he had less than 350 t-cells in every drop of blood. His immune system was so weak Johnny’s body would be unable to fight off even simple illnesses such as the cough or diarrhea. Eventually, Johnny would die from AIDS.
Martha explained that although she taught her class about HIV in the government’s prescribed Life Skills curriculum, she’d never heard of t-cells. She assured Reinier, Ms. Madala, and myself that she would continue to use diagrams and detailed explains as she continued to teach her future students about AIDS.
Yesterday, I met two teachers at Chimutu FPS.
Yesterday, I empowered a teacher.
Yesterday, I impacted every single one of Martha Mkonkholo’s future students.
Monday, January 9, 2012
Malawi Malawi Malawi
As expected, my diligent blog posting collapsed upon arrival in Malawi. I’ve been incredibly busy since I landed in Lilongwe on Dec. 30. Bikoko and I arrived the same day, and we immediately hit the ground running because all 4 interns arrived the very next day. We set up the house, updated documents, confirmed schools, and caught up on the past four months before heading to the airport. Two of the January interns are from Colby, so it’s fun to swap stories and recommend restaurants (Foss Fam: we’re going to the Lebanese restaurant asap). The third intern is from Maine but goes to school in North Carolina and the last intern is from Canada. It’s a great group.
So once the whole group was in Malawi, we had our four-day orientation filled with curriculum, city tours, consultations with Lali, our tailor, yummy food prepared by John, early mornings, and errands. Tuesday the 3rd we headed straight into the village for a 4-day 3-night homestay and camp. So far, I love this schedule and the extended homestays. We teach from 9:30am-1:30pm, take a half hour break for lunch, and then do optional creative writing workshops with the kids. It’s great to not have to pack up the car in the morning then drive to the school and drive all the way home and unpack supplies.
So pretty much every morning, I got up early (5:30) to run. I wanted a quiet village but everyone was already up, pumping water and walking to church. Then I’d take my bucket bath, have some breakfast and read on the porch before class started. One morning I went to church, which was just in front of our house. It was a short service, only 40minutes, and completely in Chichewa, but I’m glad I went and got a quick overview from a translator after.
During school, I mostly chatted with the teachers. We sat on my host family’s porch and compared Malawi and the US. Other mornings I’d read or help sweep the house. At 1:30, we’d wrap up classes and walk about 15 minutes to the trading center where the headmaster hosted us for lunch. Two days we had nsima, two days we had rice. She mad a delicious relish with rice. If time allowed, we’d chat for awhile then head back to school where we held the optional creative writing sections for the kids. All the girls and about half the guys showed up everyday.
After school we hung out at the futball field for a few hours, kicking a ball, chatting in either Chichewa or English, walking to watch the sunset, tossing a Frisbee, singing, or any other number of activities. Then it was back to the boys’ host family for dinner altogether. We had nsima, rice, and pasta on various nights with yummy yummy relishes.
One afternoon, I talked with our host dad for close to an hour. He brought out pictures of his wife and two kids because they’re visiting family up north and we couldn’t meet them. We talked about his schooling and teaching and Malawi. His English was great and it was wonderful to be able to just sit and chat.
This weekend, we took a tour of the city where we saw the first president’s burial site, a war memorial featured in the Amazing Race, and Coffin Street. We also went to a soccer game where we rooted for the Civil Servants to beat the army’s Red Lions but were defeated. Dinner out completed a great weekend.
This week, we’re living at the house and working at a city school that’s just a few minutes drive away. After camp today, we went to Baylor AIDS Pediatrics Clinic and the office of Grassroots Soccer, which is an NGO that uses soccer to raise awareness of and promote testing for HIV. Tomorrow we’re going to the Crisis Nursery and Thursday we’ll visit a permiculture site to learn about sustainable gardening and more efficient ways to farm in Malawi.
Also, the interns are keeping their own blog at worldcampforkids.blogspot.com. check it out.
So once the whole group was in Malawi, we had our four-day orientation filled with curriculum, city tours, consultations with Lali, our tailor, yummy food prepared by John, early mornings, and errands. Tuesday the 3rd we headed straight into the village for a 4-day 3-night homestay and camp. So far, I love this schedule and the extended homestays. We teach from 9:30am-1:30pm, take a half hour break for lunch, and then do optional creative writing workshops with the kids. It’s great to not have to pack up the car in the morning then drive to the school and drive all the way home and unpack supplies.
So pretty much every morning, I got up early (5:30) to run. I wanted a quiet village but everyone was already up, pumping water and walking to church. Then I’d take my bucket bath, have some breakfast and read on the porch before class started. One morning I went to church, which was just in front of our house. It was a short service, only 40minutes, and completely in Chichewa, but I’m glad I went and got a quick overview from a translator after.
During school, I mostly chatted with the teachers. We sat on my host family’s porch and compared Malawi and the US. Other mornings I’d read or help sweep the house. At 1:30, we’d wrap up classes and walk about 15 minutes to the trading center where the headmaster hosted us for lunch. Two days we had nsima, two days we had rice. She mad a delicious relish with rice. If time allowed, we’d chat for awhile then head back to school where we held the optional creative writing sections for the kids. All the girls and about half the guys showed up everyday.
After school we hung out at the futball field for a few hours, kicking a ball, chatting in either Chichewa or English, walking to watch the sunset, tossing a Frisbee, singing, or any other number of activities. Then it was back to the boys’ host family for dinner altogether. We had nsima, rice, and pasta on various nights with yummy yummy relishes.
One afternoon, I talked with our host dad for close to an hour. He brought out pictures of his wife and two kids because they’re visiting family up north and we couldn’t meet them. We talked about his schooling and teaching and Malawi. His English was great and it was wonderful to be able to just sit and chat.
This weekend, we took a tour of the city where we saw the first president’s burial site, a war memorial featured in the Amazing Race, and Coffin Street. We also went to a soccer game where we rooted for the Civil Servants to beat the army’s Red Lions but were defeated. Dinner out completed a great weekend.
This week, we’re living at the house and working at a city school that’s just a few minutes drive away. After camp today, we went to Baylor AIDS Pediatrics Clinic and the office of Grassroots Soccer, which is an NGO that uses soccer to raise awareness of and promote testing for HIV. Tomorrow we’re going to the Crisis Nursery and Thursday we’ll visit a permiculture site to learn about sustainable gardening and more efficient ways to farm in Malawi.
Also, the interns are keeping their own blog at worldcampforkids.blogspot.com. check it out.
Monday, February 7, 2011
One Last Blog
Wow have I been horrible at updating in Malawi. The session ended pretty typically. Homestay was fun – I got to stay in a house with two volunteers. The three houses we used were really far apart, so I spent the majority of my time walking between them making sure everyone was alright. Then we spent hours outside dancing. I was so tired and finally got tired of being stared at. I’ve never been annoyed like I was that night. We went to Lake Malawi which was wonderful. The water’s so warm and Cool Runnings, the place we stay, is incredible. Sam, the owner, talked to us for awhile our first night. She went over all of her projects in “her villages.” They’re all completely sustainable and effective. She’s had the local potter teach at risk youth how to build pots. The kids have a hobby, earn an income, and the potter is able to sell his stuff at her lodge. She gives wheelchairs to handicapped people on a few conditions, including that they must go to work. They’re checked up on and warned if they’re not following the rules. She’s only had to take away one wheelchair in ten years. She had the local primary school collect plastic to return for money to build a library. Then she and her clients donated all of the books. She’s got about ten projects total, what an incredible woman. Then I flew back to the States, was picked up by two friends at the airport and came back to Colby. Classes have started, I’ve gone to crew practice every day and the snow bank is huge.
The adjustment’s rough. Crossing the street is difficult – I always look the wrong way. Getting into the passenger’s side requires planning. I’m constantly overwhelmed in the dining hall, there’re too many people and they’re so loud. Plus they’re eating so much. And I miss nsima. I miss John, Ngoni and Mr. Vitto. I miss morning bus rides and I really miss morning songs. I miss kids. I miss the feeling that I’m doing some sort of good. What does my schoolwork at Colby do for the rest of the world?
In other news: my plan for the future: head back to Malawi, still working with World Camp, in May. After this semester, I’ll be working both summer sessions again in Lilongwe! No official date to leave yet, but it’s only three months away! Elena will hopefully be coming too! Plus I’ve got a few friends at Colby and Pitzer really interested!
pictures: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2075576&id=1036350539&l=b6b9f37001
The adjustment’s rough. Crossing the street is difficult – I always look the wrong way. Getting into the passenger’s side requires planning. I’m constantly overwhelmed in the dining hall, there’re too many people and they’re so loud. Plus they’re eating so much. And I miss nsima. I miss John, Ngoni and Mr. Vitto. I miss morning bus rides and I really miss morning songs. I miss kids. I miss the feeling that I’m doing some sort of good. What does my schoolwork at Colby do for the rest of the world?
In other news: my plan for the future: head back to Malawi, still working with World Camp, in May. After this semester, I’ll be working both summer sessions again in Lilongwe! No official date to leave yet, but it’s only three months away! Elena will hopefully be coming too! Plus I’ve got a few friends at Colby and Pitzer really interested!
pictures: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2075576&id=1036350539&l=b6b9f37001
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Safari
Just got back yesterday from a short 4 day trip to Zambia. We stayed at Wildlife again, which was nice as always. I still think it has by far the best sunset view. The sun goes down beyond the tree line on the opposite side of the slowly flowing but massive river, filled with hippos. Unfortunately it was too cloudy Friday night, our first night, to see a sunset. But we had a yummy, yummy dinner. I went on the night drive Saturday and saw the sunset from the top of a hill in the park, standing next to impala and overlooking buffalo bathing in a small pond. Epic much? We also saw giraffes, elephants, zebras, impala, bush and water buck, hundreds of beautiful birds, lots of rodents, plus a leopard.
I did get to watch the sunset Sunday night from the restaurant. It was small but incredible. I couldn’t see the sun itself but it streaked that side of the sky pink and orange. The clouds were in horizontal lines that reflected in the river. It was only Jaren, Nick, Catherine and I who had stayed back that night. The other four volunteers found a pride of lions munching on a zebra they had killed 5 minutes before. Then they drove five minutes down the road and found a hyena eating an impala it had just stolen from the leopard they saw walking away from its kill.
We drove back Monday and had John’s incredible enchiladas and fruit salad for dinner. Today I’m staying back from camp to get some work done. This week’s homestay!
I did get to watch the sunset Sunday night from the restaurant. It was small but incredible. I couldn’t see the sun itself but it streaked that side of the sky pink and orange. The clouds were in horizontal lines that reflected in the river. It was only Jaren, Nick, Catherine and I who had stayed back that night. The other four volunteers found a pride of lions munching on a zebra they had killed 5 minutes before. Then they drove five minutes down the road and found a hyena eating an impala it had just stolen from the leopard they saw walking away from its kill.
We drove back Monday and had John’s incredible enchiladas and fruit salad for dinner. Today I’m staying back from camp to get some work done. This week’s homestay!
Hair
I love looking at hair. Botswana had incredible hair everywhere and Lilongwe is just the same; little girls and women everywhere you look with beautiful braids that swirl and cross. Sometimes they wear extensions, the longest of which extend way past the waist. Sometime they show off colored streaks – red and blue are my favorite. What’s incredible to me is how hair in Botswana and Lilongwe differs from that in rural villages. You can’t find braids decorating the heads of girls at primary schools where World Camp works. The time and money to dedicate to weekly or monthly trips to the salon just aren’t available. Instead, girls have their hair cut uniformly short.
Monday, January 10, 2011
Catch up - Malawi style
So much has happened; I’m not quite sure where to start. My last real post was about Christmas. World Camp certainly keeps me busy and away from my blog. I’ll maybe tell a few stories and not outline everything, because I certainly don’t remember a lot of it and most of it’s work.
All six volunteers were supposed to arrive on Dec. 30. On the 29th, we got two emails from the office in the States saying two volunteers were stuck in airports and wouldn’t get in until the 31st. So the next day I headed to the airport with Cyrus, one of our drivers, and waited for the other four volunteers. The plane emptied and no college-aged azungu girls got off the plane. A security guard bent the rules and let me look back into the baggage claim area but no one fitting the volunteer’s look was there. So I had Cyrus wait in case they walked by really late and went to the South African office. Not to go into details, but the lady helping me wasn’t all that helpful. Turns out only one of the girls was on the manifest, but apparently that doesn’t mean she’s necessarily on the plane. So convinced none of the girls were in Malawi, I headed home. 0 for 4. Luckily, about an hour after I got home, we got an email from one of the girls saying they were all in Joburg together and would be flying in the next morning. Although I’d spent about four hours at the airport, I was glad I hadn’t left anyone behind.
The next day we started orientation a full 24 hours late. Luckily, the volunteers are great and although we were rushed we never missed important points because we didn’t have enough time. We started camp bright and early Monday morning. The school we were at was wonderful. They already had an HIV/AIDS awareness club in place and two tree planting clubs. The teachers and students came to Day 1 on a public holiday – what dedication! The teachers were committed to improving their community and the students were obviously eager to learn.
When we were leaving on Day 3, we passed about ten students walking home on the road. A few of them ran after the bus for a few seconds, but one stayed with us for about five minutes, singing one of our morning songs into the window “Peel Bananas! Peel! Peel Bananas! Eat Bananas! Eat! Eat Bananas!”
Our first outreach project of the session was at Dzaleka refugee camp. again, a truly trying experience. Friday morning we worked with about 30 people. We did a condom demonstration and answered a whole lot of questions. In the afternoon we were given a tour by a few church leaders. It was incredible to see the living situations in the camp. The UN and Red Cross give out monthly rations of ufa (what you use to make nsima) and rice that people use to trade for other food, since they both nsima and rice are eaten with a relish (typically veggies or beans; meat is a special treat).
We saw the camp’s clinic was appeared much nicer than most of the rural clinics we see. The doctor described a wonderful clinic that helped the refugees as much if not more than the Malawians it treated. The refugees described it differently.
We saw the camp’s primary and secondary schools. We saw where the teaching college is being built for Malawians only. We walked through people’s fields of maize and small community gardens. We saw the only preschool in the camp, a single red brick building that accommodates more than 500 preschoolers. We saw the hall where refugees in transfer stay in tents. We saw the notice board where a number of refugees were reading the latest updates. We walked by a bar where we saw and said hi to a teacher from the last school. We passed the office where refugees go to get permits to leave the camp since they can’t do so without permission.
We were stopped Saturday morning in a trading center and told to pull onto a side street with about thirty other cars. Turns out a really important person was driving by and they were clearing the roads. We sat in the car for a few minutes and then heard it was President Bingu who would be passing by. So all eight azungus plus our three Field Staff piled out of the van and walked to the road. I saw the President of Malawi! it was through tinted windows and he was going ridiculously fast, but I saw him!
We made it to the camp a little late and started off talking about stigma. We quickly transferred into questions which turned into refugees asking World Camp for resources. They teach people in the villages about HIV but no one will come because they have no sugar or soap to hand out. When they teach in the camp people come and don’t ask for anything. They wanted shirts. They wanted food. They asked for money. They have ARVs but need more food to take them with. It was heartbreaking to know that WC can’t supply any of this. Is the information we come with any good if the people we’re talking to can’t make the changes they want to?
Sunday we were up early to hike Mt. Nkhoma. We left the house about a half hour after when we’d originally planned because it’d been raining all morning. We got to the mountain and the top was completely covered in clouds. The cloud cover made it cool enough but also completely erased the beautiful view. We scrambled up together in the densest vegetation I’ve ever walked through. It was incredible. The view from the top was absolutely horrible. You couldn’t see twenty feet away. We had lunch at the peak and then headed back down.
Today I stayed back from camp to plan our last outreach project and get some work done. I’m really excited to go to this last CBO. Chris, who I met with today, sounds like he’s put so much into his ten year old organization and they do truly great work.
Since I’m obviously really bad at posting in Malawi, feel free to check out World Camp’s blog since it’s updated weekly by volunteers: worldcampforkids@blogspot.com.
All six volunteers were supposed to arrive on Dec. 30. On the 29th, we got two emails from the office in the States saying two volunteers were stuck in airports and wouldn’t get in until the 31st. So the next day I headed to the airport with Cyrus, one of our drivers, and waited for the other four volunteers. The plane emptied and no college-aged azungu girls got off the plane. A security guard bent the rules and let me look back into the baggage claim area but no one fitting the volunteer’s look was there. So I had Cyrus wait in case they walked by really late and went to the South African office. Not to go into details, but the lady helping me wasn’t all that helpful. Turns out only one of the girls was on the manifest, but apparently that doesn’t mean she’s necessarily on the plane. So convinced none of the girls were in Malawi, I headed home. 0 for 4. Luckily, about an hour after I got home, we got an email from one of the girls saying they were all in Joburg together and would be flying in the next morning. Although I’d spent about four hours at the airport, I was glad I hadn’t left anyone behind.
The next day we started orientation a full 24 hours late. Luckily, the volunteers are great and although we were rushed we never missed important points because we didn’t have enough time. We started camp bright and early Monday morning. The school we were at was wonderful. They already had an HIV/AIDS awareness club in place and two tree planting clubs. The teachers and students came to Day 1 on a public holiday – what dedication! The teachers were committed to improving their community and the students were obviously eager to learn.
When we were leaving on Day 3, we passed about ten students walking home on the road. A few of them ran after the bus for a few seconds, but one stayed with us for about five minutes, singing one of our morning songs into the window “Peel Bananas! Peel! Peel Bananas! Eat Bananas! Eat! Eat Bananas!”
Our first outreach project of the session was at Dzaleka refugee camp. again, a truly trying experience. Friday morning we worked with about 30 people. We did a condom demonstration and answered a whole lot of questions. In the afternoon we were given a tour by a few church leaders. It was incredible to see the living situations in the camp. The UN and Red Cross give out monthly rations of ufa (what you use to make nsima) and rice that people use to trade for other food, since they both nsima and rice are eaten with a relish (typically veggies or beans; meat is a special treat).
We saw the camp’s clinic was appeared much nicer than most of the rural clinics we see. The doctor described a wonderful clinic that helped the refugees as much if not more than the Malawians it treated. The refugees described it differently.
We saw the camp’s primary and secondary schools. We saw where the teaching college is being built for Malawians only. We walked through people’s fields of maize and small community gardens. We saw the only preschool in the camp, a single red brick building that accommodates more than 500 preschoolers. We saw the hall where refugees in transfer stay in tents. We saw the notice board where a number of refugees were reading the latest updates. We walked by a bar where we saw and said hi to a teacher from the last school. We passed the office where refugees go to get permits to leave the camp since they can’t do so without permission.
We were stopped Saturday morning in a trading center and told to pull onto a side street with about thirty other cars. Turns out a really important person was driving by and they were clearing the roads. We sat in the car for a few minutes and then heard it was President Bingu who would be passing by. So all eight azungus plus our three Field Staff piled out of the van and walked to the road. I saw the President of Malawi! it was through tinted windows and he was going ridiculously fast, but I saw him!
We made it to the camp a little late and started off talking about stigma. We quickly transferred into questions which turned into refugees asking World Camp for resources. They teach people in the villages about HIV but no one will come because they have no sugar or soap to hand out. When they teach in the camp people come and don’t ask for anything. They wanted shirts. They wanted food. They asked for money. They have ARVs but need more food to take them with. It was heartbreaking to know that WC can’t supply any of this. Is the information we come with any good if the people we’re talking to can’t make the changes they want to?
Sunday we were up early to hike Mt. Nkhoma. We left the house about a half hour after when we’d originally planned because it’d been raining all morning. We got to the mountain and the top was completely covered in clouds. The cloud cover made it cool enough but also completely erased the beautiful view. We scrambled up together in the densest vegetation I’ve ever walked through. It was incredible. The view from the top was absolutely horrible. You couldn’t see twenty feet away. We had lunch at the peak and then headed back down.
Today I stayed back from camp to plan our last outreach project and get some work done. I’m really excited to go to this last CBO. Chris, who I met with today, sounds like he’s put so much into his ten year old organization and they do truly great work.
Since I’m obviously really bad at posting in Malawi, feel free to check out World Camp’s blog since it’s updated weekly by volunteers: worldcampforkids@blogspot.com.
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Two Faces
As we drive by, kids always have one of two looks on their faces. The first is pure joy. They seem to love waving at the full bus of azungus driving on the bumpy, muddy road. They run from every corner of the village when they hear the rumble of the approaching car, standing, waiting, on the side of the road for the chance to wave and give a huge thumbs up. Their smiles reach from corner to corner as they lose their balance waving their arms trying to grab our attention.
The second look is complete concern; concern that their wave will go unanswered; concern that they will go unnoticed in the sea of kids; concern that we won’t return the next day for one final wave. Eyes widen as mouths turn downward to form frowns and all concentration is poured into ensuring the azungus notice their frantic waves.
The second look is complete concern; concern that their wave will go unanswered; concern that they will go unnoticed in the sea of kids; concern that we won’t return the next day for one final wave. Eyes widen as mouths turn downward to form frowns and all concentration is poured into ensuring the azungus notice their frantic waves.
Monday, December 27, 2010
Christmas at Cape Maclear
After a few hard days of work at the WC house, Jaren and I decided to take a few days off and celebrate Christmas at the lake. Instead of going to Senga Bay, where we take the volunteers every session, we wanted to check out Cape Maclear. We tried calling a few lodges with dorms but they were either full or didn’t answer – we decided to wing it. So we caught the 7am bus on Christmas Eve and got ready for the 5½ hour drive to Monkey Bay. We were some of the last ones on the bus so it was standing room only for us. About two hours in a seat opened up so I got to sit down and make friends with Johnny, the guy sitting next to me. Also on our bus: a chicken, tied up in a plastic bag and hung from the luggage rack.
We got to Monkey Bay (John’s home village) and were dumbstruck by the greenery and beauty. There were huge hills covered in trees and plants. We met some guys who drive between Monkey Bay and Cape Maclear and agreed to pay p300 for an 18km drive. So we hopped in the back of their truck along with three other Azungu, a lot Malawians and a few huge bags of maize. I sat on a paint can, which reminded me a whole lot of The Groover from rafting up in Idaho. We also saw a few troops of baboons on our drive.
Once we got to Cape Maclear, we tried to find some beds in dorms, but they were all booked. The only place we could find was a chalet at Tuckaway’s. It turned out to be really nice with a porch really close to the ocean. The beach was absolutely beautiful – we walked quite a ways down although the sand was some of the toughest I’ve ever seen. There was a huge island that looked remarkably like Lizard island in Senag Bay, just much closer. There was also a huge island to the right that was only separated from land by a narrow passage. While we were reading on the porch, a group of kids walked up and stood behind the 1foot tall gate they’re not allowed to pass. They had a drum set (two traditional drums held on a stand) and a makeshift guitar (strings tied to an empty gas can on one end and a stick on the other). They sang two songs for us and danced. The first went like this: “How are you? I’m fine! How are you? I’m fine! How are you? I’m fine! Muli bwa? Dili bwino! Muli bwa? Dili bwino! Muli bwa? Dili bwino!” and the second was “stronger” by Kenan. We had dinner that night at another small lodge, checked out the live music at the Gecko Lodge for about half an hour (a complete failure, it was 9pm and hardly anyone was there) and called it an early night.
On Christmas, we went for a swim first thing in the morning. There was a floating dock that we swam out to and both got really sunburned on. We had breakfast at the same small lodge and chippies at a nearby stand for lunch. We read on our porch and in hammocks, walked on the beach, played some Boa and swam again. I got to talk to my family, which was really nice, although I’m still jealous they had a snowy Christmas!
Once our Christmas phone calls were done, it was 7.30. We headed back to Geckos but their kitchen was closed for the night. We walked along the road and passed quite a few closed lodges. Finally we found one that was open. We sat down and ordered – although they didn’t have cold beer or Jaren's first two dishes of choice. After about an hour of waiting, we gave up our large table to a bigger group. We played some boa and tried not to think that we’d been waiting for our food for an hour and a half. Eventually we asked the waiter who said it’d be 10 minutes. Two minutes later, another guy brought out our dishes with steaming hot chips. My veggie burger was sliced tomato, onions, peppers and lettuce on a bun. Jaren’s fish was big but cold. So at 10 we paid our bill and headed home. It was another early night.
The next morning we were up at 5am to catch the 5.30 truck into Monkey Bay to catch the 6am bus. At 5:10 we got on the back of a truck going the wrong direction, although they told us you could still go that way. We drove all the way into town, turned around and drove all the way back. It was 6.05 by the time we left Cape Maclear. Luckily, even busses wait for small trucks. We drove the twenty minutes to Monkey Bay and hopped on the bus, which left right away. Apparently it had been waiting for our truck. This time I was lucky and got a seat. We made it back to Lilongwe without any major problems, although I was convinced the entire time our bus would break down – there were some pretty funky noises the whole drive. We showered and rehydrated after such a hot bus ride, watched a movie, cooked some baked Mac ‘n Cheese for dinner and had another early night. I don’t think I’ve stayed up past 9.30 in Malawi, apart from the one night we didn’t eat until 10.
Cape Maclear was a beautiful village that I’m really glad I got to see. The one sunset I saw was incredible. The people were really friendly but they also didn’t badger us once we said we didn’t want a boat to the island or to go to their Christmas BBQ at the Reggae Bar in town.
We got to Monkey Bay (John’s home village) and were dumbstruck by the greenery and beauty. There were huge hills covered in trees and plants. We met some guys who drive between Monkey Bay and Cape Maclear and agreed to pay p300 for an 18km drive. So we hopped in the back of their truck along with three other Azungu, a lot Malawians and a few huge bags of maize. I sat on a paint can, which reminded me a whole lot of The Groover from rafting up in Idaho. We also saw a few troops of baboons on our drive.
Once we got to Cape Maclear, we tried to find some beds in dorms, but they were all booked. The only place we could find was a chalet at Tuckaway’s. It turned out to be really nice with a porch really close to the ocean. The beach was absolutely beautiful – we walked quite a ways down although the sand was some of the toughest I’ve ever seen. There was a huge island that looked remarkably like Lizard island in Senag Bay, just much closer. There was also a huge island to the right that was only separated from land by a narrow passage. While we were reading on the porch, a group of kids walked up and stood behind the 1foot tall gate they’re not allowed to pass. They had a drum set (two traditional drums held on a stand) and a makeshift guitar (strings tied to an empty gas can on one end and a stick on the other). They sang two songs for us and danced. The first went like this: “How are you? I’m fine! How are you? I’m fine! How are you? I’m fine! Muli bwa? Dili bwino! Muli bwa? Dili bwino! Muli bwa? Dili bwino!” and the second was “stronger” by Kenan. We had dinner that night at another small lodge, checked out the live music at the Gecko Lodge for about half an hour (a complete failure, it was 9pm and hardly anyone was there) and called it an early night.
On Christmas, we went for a swim first thing in the morning. There was a floating dock that we swam out to and both got really sunburned on. We had breakfast at the same small lodge and chippies at a nearby stand for lunch. We read on our porch and in hammocks, walked on the beach, played some Boa and swam again. I got to talk to my family, which was really nice, although I’m still jealous they had a snowy Christmas!
Once our Christmas phone calls were done, it was 7.30. We headed back to Geckos but their kitchen was closed for the night. We walked along the road and passed quite a few closed lodges. Finally we found one that was open. We sat down and ordered – although they didn’t have cold beer or Jaren's first two dishes of choice. After about an hour of waiting, we gave up our large table to a bigger group. We played some boa and tried not to think that we’d been waiting for our food for an hour and a half. Eventually we asked the waiter who said it’d be 10 minutes. Two minutes later, another guy brought out our dishes with steaming hot chips. My veggie burger was sliced tomato, onions, peppers and lettuce on a bun. Jaren’s fish was big but cold. So at 10 we paid our bill and headed home. It was another early night.
The next morning we were up at 5am to catch the 5.30 truck into Monkey Bay to catch the 6am bus. At 5:10 we got on the back of a truck going the wrong direction, although they told us you could still go that way. We drove all the way into town, turned around and drove all the way back. It was 6.05 by the time we left Cape Maclear. Luckily, even busses wait for small trucks. We drove the twenty minutes to Monkey Bay and hopped on the bus, which left right away. Apparently it had been waiting for our truck. This time I was lucky and got a seat. We made it back to Lilongwe without any major problems, although I was convinced the entire time our bus would break down – there were some pretty funky noises the whole drive. We showered and rehydrated after such a hot bus ride, watched a movie, cooked some baked Mac ‘n Cheese for dinner and had another early night. I don’t think I’ve stayed up past 9.30 in Malawi, apart from the one night we didn’t eat until 10.
Cape Maclear was a beautiful village that I’m really glad I got to see. The one sunset I saw was incredible. The people were really friendly but they also didn’t badger us once we said we didn’t want a boat to the island or to go to their Christmas BBQ at the Reggae Bar in town.
Arrived safe in Malawi!
And boy does it feel great to be back home in the WC house. Thanks to me losing my passport, I hadn’t really expected to get into Lilongwe until Thursday at the earliest. But luckily, despite quite a few hiccups, everything worked out.
So after my trip to the Embassy, I hung out at the program house for awhile. I really wanted to see my host mom, Tiny, in the hospital (she was planned to have a cesarean and have a baby girl!) but it didn’t look like it’d work out with the timing. I had a cab coming at 3:30 and it was already 1:30. I took a cab home and found my host dad and sister there. They’d met Atlha, the newest member of their family and were now letting mom and baby rest. They could go back and visit at 3. I didn’t think there’d be enough time to go to the hospital and back, but John convinced me there was. As we were waiting to leave, two of his constituents showed up at our house. He said they weren’t friends and that they’d just showed up to ask him for things. He was clearly annoyed and said that this is just what people did; they showed up to their representatives and asked for things. But isn’t that the point? Shouldn’t he be fighting for what his constituents want in parliament? It was weird to watch him dismiss these two men so easily when he was elected by them to serve them. I was impressed with the easy access these men had to their representative and upset with how easily John dismissed it.
So a few minutes after 3pm, we left the house for the hospital. We found Tiny and Atlha sleeping, although Tiny woke up when we walked in. Atlha had been born at 10am, so she was just five hours old. She was beautiful. Her little hands were all curled up and she was wearing one of those cute little hats the hospital gives to every new baby. I really wanted to hold her but also knew to never wake a sleeping baby.
At 3:20 we left for the house again. When we pulled up, Lala, my very trusted taxi driver was already waiting. He joked about me never being on time, because this was the second time he’d had to wait for me, although we pulled into the driveway at 3:29. I grabbed my bags, said goodbye to Ame, and hopped in the taxi. We drove the thirty minutes to the airport and I tried to check in. Tried being the key word in that sentence.
The lady at the desk told me I had to go to the special desk to get authorization to check in. So I did, and the man who helped me was a friend of Phono’s who I’d talked to on the phone when I was trying to move my tickets up. He printed out an authorization card and sent me back to the same lady. But when she tried to check me in again, she realized my ticket was booked for Dec. 27. So I went back to Phono’s friend and asked what he could do for me. He said although my ticket was for the 20th, my booking was for the 27th. WTF? He could change it for $200. I knew it was worth it but also asked if he could get that down at all. And he did! He got it to p200, which is approximate $64. So we changed my ticket to the right day and I checked in.
Then I went to security (after chugging my nalgene) where they didn’t notice the pocket knife I’d forgotten to take out of my backpack. They also didn’t care about the toothpaste or hand sanitizer I had with me. I got to the immigration desk and handed over my brand new passport. The immigration office was not happy I didn’t have an entry stamp. So I explained I’d lost my passport and therefore the stamp. She got on the phone with her supervisor for quite awhile and asked me a lot of questions. In addition to not having a stamp, I’d lost my visa extension paper that I’d paid for in Maun. So my original visa had expired as well. She asked why I’d stayed in Tlokweng, which is the address I’d given when I arrived. I was really confused until I realized the office had relocated to Gabs and I’d given the old address. So in addition to not having any of the correct paperwork, it seemed like I’d lied on my immigration form four months before.
She asked for a letter confirming I was a student but since I didn’t have one, really didn’t believe me. I told her that on my way into the country, I’d shown my program manual and that had been enough. She asked her supervisor to come over and told me to stand to the side and wait. So I waited a little less than ten minutes, until a woman on the biggest power trip ever walked over. She was strutting slowly and swinging her keychain back and forth. She came up to me, didn’t say hello, and asked for my passport. Since I didn’t have it, we walked over to the immigration both together and had a long conversation with the immigration officer. Again, I was asked for my visa extension papers and a letter proving I was a student. Since I didn’t have either, the supervisor and I went back out through security and called my bag off the plane. At first I thought she wouldn’t let me leave, but she just wanted to see my student manual. So I showed it to her, and she decided it was enough. We went back through security and I was given an exit stamp and allowed to run to my plane after they both told me independently that I should be much more careful the next time I came to Botswana and that they were doing me a huge favor. Aysh!
So I ran for my plane. It was pretty much empty so I had the row to myself. I spent the night in the Joburg airport, and since I’d planned on it this time, I brought lots of extra socks and jackets to stay warm with. I napped for a few hours and caught my 10am plane the next morning. Jaren picked me up at the airport and we started working right away. We rearranged the furniture in the annex, living room and office and got some office work done. Today, we ran a few errands in town, explored the new mall and took a Christmas card picture with John, Ngoni and Mr. Vitto!!! Check out World Camp’s blog (worldcampforkids@blogspot.com) or their facebook page to see it… And trust me, you don’t want to miss it!
So after my trip to the Embassy, I hung out at the program house for awhile. I really wanted to see my host mom, Tiny, in the hospital (she was planned to have a cesarean and have a baby girl!) but it didn’t look like it’d work out with the timing. I had a cab coming at 3:30 and it was already 1:30. I took a cab home and found my host dad and sister there. They’d met Atlha, the newest member of their family and were now letting mom and baby rest. They could go back and visit at 3. I didn’t think there’d be enough time to go to the hospital and back, but John convinced me there was. As we were waiting to leave, two of his constituents showed up at our house. He said they weren’t friends and that they’d just showed up to ask him for things. He was clearly annoyed and said that this is just what people did; they showed up to their representatives and asked for things. But isn’t that the point? Shouldn’t he be fighting for what his constituents want in parliament? It was weird to watch him dismiss these two men so easily when he was elected by them to serve them. I was impressed with the easy access these men had to their representative and upset with how easily John dismissed it.
So a few minutes after 3pm, we left the house for the hospital. We found Tiny and Atlha sleeping, although Tiny woke up when we walked in. Atlha had been born at 10am, so she was just five hours old. She was beautiful. Her little hands were all curled up and she was wearing one of those cute little hats the hospital gives to every new baby. I really wanted to hold her but also knew to never wake a sleeping baby.
At 3:20 we left for the house again. When we pulled up, Lala, my very trusted taxi driver was already waiting. He joked about me never being on time, because this was the second time he’d had to wait for me, although we pulled into the driveway at 3:29. I grabbed my bags, said goodbye to Ame, and hopped in the taxi. We drove the thirty minutes to the airport and I tried to check in. Tried being the key word in that sentence.
The lady at the desk told me I had to go to the special desk to get authorization to check in. So I did, and the man who helped me was a friend of Phono’s who I’d talked to on the phone when I was trying to move my tickets up. He printed out an authorization card and sent me back to the same lady. But when she tried to check me in again, she realized my ticket was booked for Dec. 27. So I went back to Phono’s friend and asked what he could do for me. He said although my ticket was for the 20th, my booking was for the 27th. WTF? He could change it for $200. I knew it was worth it but also asked if he could get that down at all. And he did! He got it to p200, which is approximate $64. So we changed my ticket to the right day and I checked in.
Then I went to security (after chugging my nalgene) where they didn’t notice the pocket knife I’d forgotten to take out of my backpack. They also didn’t care about the toothpaste or hand sanitizer I had with me. I got to the immigration desk and handed over my brand new passport. The immigration office was not happy I didn’t have an entry stamp. So I explained I’d lost my passport and therefore the stamp. She got on the phone with her supervisor for quite awhile and asked me a lot of questions. In addition to not having a stamp, I’d lost my visa extension paper that I’d paid for in Maun. So my original visa had expired as well. She asked why I’d stayed in Tlokweng, which is the address I’d given when I arrived. I was really confused until I realized the office had relocated to Gabs and I’d given the old address. So in addition to not having any of the correct paperwork, it seemed like I’d lied on my immigration form four months before.
She asked for a letter confirming I was a student but since I didn’t have one, really didn’t believe me. I told her that on my way into the country, I’d shown my program manual and that had been enough. She asked her supervisor to come over and told me to stand to the side and wait. So I waited a little less than ten minutes, until a woman on the biggest power trip ever walked over. She was strutting slowly and swinging her keychain back and forth. She came up to me, didn’t say hello, and asked for my passport. Since I didn’t have it, we walked over to the immigration both together and had a long conversation with the immigration officer. Again, I was asked for my visa extension papers and a letter proving I was a student. Since I didn’t have either, the supervisor and I went back out through security and called my bag off the plane. At first I thought she wouldn’t let me leave, but she just wanted to see my student manual. So I showed it to her, and she decided it was enough. We went back through security and I was given an exit stamp and allowed to run to my plane after they both told me independently that I should be much more careful the next time I came to Botswana and that they were doing me a huge favor. Aysh!
So I ran for my plane. It was pretty much empty so I had the row to myself. I spent the night in the Joburg airport, and since I’d planned on it this time, I brought lots of extra socks and jackets to stay warm with. I napped for a few hours and caught my 10am plane the next morning. Jaren picked me up at the airport and we started working right away. We rearranged the furniture in the annex, living room and office and got some office work done. Today, we ran a few errands in town, explored the new mall and took a Christmas card picture with John, Ngoni and Mr. Vitto!!! Check out World Camp’s blog (worldcampforkids@blogspot.com) or their facebook page to see it… And trust me, you don’t want to miss it!
Monday, December 20, 2010
Passport Mathata
Aysh! Ke mathata. Somehow I managed to lose my passport in Botswana. Oops! I realized it Friday afternoon, the day before my flight out of Bots and after the US Embassy had closed for the weekend. I called their afterhours number and was told no one could help me until Monday. So I went online, researched all the forms I'd need and started to gather them all up, and believe me, it wasn't easy. I printed two forms from online and filled them out. I went to the police station and filed a claim. I made copies of my CA Driver's License with an incredibly temperamental copier. I had my mom scan and email me a copy of my birth certificate and passport (THANKS!). I collected copies of my health insurance and travel insurance. I even grabbed my immunization records. And of course, I made sure I had enough money to cover any charges they could throw at me. I moved my flights to Wednesday. I told my Gabs host family I'd be staying a few extra days and that I was sorry to take their extra room but that I was super excited to meet Atlha, their baby girl who was due Monday. They told me it wasn't a problem; that they were happy to have me stay!
Monday rolled around and I showed up to the embassy at 8am, even though it had opened at 7:30. Turns out they don't deal with citizens until 9:30. So Phono (my program director) and I went for a cup of coffee and returned to the huge embassy right at half nine. I was let in but Phono had to stay outside the gate. They made me leave my backpack, computer and cell phone in the security office. I went through the metal detector and was ushered through a door that had to be opened from the other side of bullet proof glass. The security guard who walked me through the beautiful gardens to the building walked behind me. I tried to talk to him but he kept saying "let's go" and pointing toward the door. I felt like I was being tried in court, being led to the podium.
He let me inside and told me to sit down. About fifteen minutes later, I saw the sign saying "please right bell for help." So I did and was helped immediately. I only had to hand over my Driver's License and the two forms I'd printed online. Then I had to pay the fee: $135. Ouch, no small chunk of change. I was told to wait twenty minutes for my passport. About forty minutes later, a man walked out and we went over my travel plans. Since I'd be returning to the States fairly soon, we decided a passport good for three months would work fine, and that I'd have to get a real passport as soon as possible. Fifteen minutes later, I was walking out with a brand new passport. All in all, the process took just over an hour inside the building. I was ushered back out to the gate by a female security guard this time, who was willing to chat but still walked behind me. I still felt like a criminal.
Phono and I drove back to the program house, where my mom and travel agent (THANK YOU BOTH!) woke up in the middle of the night to rebook my flights for tonight! So now the plan is to fly to Johannesburg on the 5:35pm flight out of Gaborone today (Monday), spend the night in the Joburg airport, and then connect to Lilongwe tomorrow (Tuesday) at 10am!
Because my life is never boring, I'm going to try to squeeze in a visit to the private hospital to visit my host mom, who is giving birth to their second child, Atlha. Atlha means to hug, ka Setswana. I'll only have about an hour at the hospital (assuming my family comes soon to pick me up!) before I have to head home to gather up my already packed bags (always be prepared!) to head to the airport!
I'm just so excited everything worked out as well as it did. I'll be in Malawi from tomorrow until Jan. 31, when I fly back to Maine to start spring semester! Although a break/chance to see my family in Cali would be great, I couldn't be happier that I'm heading back to Malawi so soon.
Monday rolled around and I showed up to the embassy at 8am, even though it had opened at 7:30. Turns out they don't deal with citizens until 9:30. So Phono (my program director) and I went for a cup of coffee and returned to the huge embassy right at half nine. I was let in but Phono had to stay outside the gate. They made me leave my backpack, computer and cell phone in the security office. I went through the metal detector and was ushered through a door that had to be opened from the other side of bullet proof glass. The security guard who walked me through the beautiful gardens to the building walked behind me. I tried to talk to him but he kept saying "let's go" and pointing toward the door. I felt like I was being tried in court, being led to the podium.
He let me inside and told me to sit down. About fifteen minutes later, I saw the sign saying "please right bell for help." So I did and was helped immediately. I only had to hand over my Driver's License and the two forms I'd printed online. Then I had to pay the fee: $135. Ouch, no small chunk of change. I was told to wait twenty minutes for my passport. About forty minutes later, a man walked out and we went over my travel plans. Since I'd be returning to the States fairly soon, we decided a passport good for three months would work fine, and that I'd have to get a real passport as soon as possible. Fifteen minutes later, I was walking out with a brand new passport. All in all, the process took just over an hour inside the building. I was ushered back out to the gate by a female security guard this time, who was willing to chat but still walked behind me. I still felt like a criminal.
Phono and I drove back to the program house, where my mom and travel agent (THANK YOU BOTH!) woke up in the middle of the night to rebook my flights for tonight! So now the plan is to fly to Johannesburg on the 5:35pm flight out of Gaborone today (Monday), spend the night in the Joburg airport, and then connect to Lilongwe tomorrow (Tuesday) at 10am!
Because my life is never boring, I'm going to try to squeeze in a visit to the private hospital to visit my host mom, who is giving birth to their second child, Atlha. Atlha means to hug, ka Setswana. I'll only have about an hour at the hospital (assuming my family comes soon to pick me up!) before I have to head home to gather up my already packed bags (always be prepared!) to head to the airport!
I'm just so excited everything worked out as well as it did. I'll be in Malawi from tomorrow until Jan. 31, when I fly back to Maine to start spring semester! Although a break/chance to see my family in Cali would be great, I couldn't be happier that I'm heading back to Malawi so soon.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Malawi Wrap Up
It’s been a ridiculous amount of time since I last posted. But know that it’s only because I’ve been so busy with incredible tasks. Since my last post, we went to the lake, went on safari, went to three more schools, did a one day camp at Dzaleka Refugee Camp (where we went last session too), sent all the volunteers home, finished up the session, and flew to South Africa! Well, the intent was to fly to Botswana but I missed my connection in Joburg and am now spending the night. But that means some unexpected free time to write up a blog! Since so much has happened, I guess I’ll write a few memorable moments.
I went to a meeting at the Ministry of Education with Jesse, one of the founders of World Camp. We met with a few different people, just checking in on what they expect from WC and what direction we can go in the future. I was disgusted at the piles of old computers in the hallways of the Ministry. They were no longer being used in the building and were being saved to be sent to schools. But they weren’t stacked neatly; they were literally thrown on top of each other. It’s amazing none of the screens had broken, or maybe the broken ones had been thrown out. Tires were piled up to the ceiling in another hallway on a lower floor.
Another surprise at the MOE: there’s a new school calendar being implemented in 2011 with a break that spans the three months we’re in country. On first thought, a nationwide break would make it hard to teach classes. But, a new idea is to just run “summer camp” like classes. That way, we have free reign to teach how we want. It might be a little more difficult to get students to come in though. A plus? The new calendar takes farming and religious holidays into account. The harvest season is a break, and days are off if there is a popular religious holiday (both Christian and Muslim).
Safari was, of course, wonderful. We saw elephants, hippos, monkeys galore, giraffes, cervils, hares, lions, and 2 leopards together, which is incredibly rare since they’re normally solitary animals. I was completely frustrated and literally had to bite my tongue when some of the volunteers asked to leave as we were watching the leopards. They were bored and only wanted to see lions. Our guide said we had to stay until another car came and was able to pick up the cats. Once we found the lions, we watched for a few minutes and the volunteers were ready to go again. Why not sit and enjoy looking at such incredible animals for a few minutes? Sunset was incredible. By far one of the best ones I’ve seen. But, since the guide had been pestered so much that we just wanted to see lions, we had our sundowner drinks on the go as we drove on to find the big cats. Then the volunteers complained they hadn’t been able to enjoy the sunset. ARGGG. I just wanted to scream.
The next morning, the six volunteers were going to go on a drive on their own. The plan was for them to make their own breakfasts from the food we’d brought before their drive left at 6. Turns out there was an elephant in front of the room with our food and they couldn’t eat. I would’ve been excited… how many people can say an elephant stood between them and their food? But no, these guys complained. Then they complained because their drive started at 6:30. But that complains legit and completely my fault.
Don’t get me wrong, I loved my volunteers. Sometimes I just forget they’re in high school. I certainly hope I was never bored when my parents took us on safari a few years ago!!
Since I was with Y2Y, I only spent one night at the lake this time. That was probably a good thing, because their attention spans are sometimes a little short. I just wanted to relax for the weekend, but they wanted to do stuff. Since they can’t go anywhere without a coordinator, I walked down the beach in both directions. Of course, it was with two different groups because they can never decide to do anything at the same time so it’s only one trip for the coordinators. I also took a small group into the trading center. That was fun, since it’s certainly different than the villages that aren’t close to Lake Malawi. I also went banana boating with three of the girls. Originally, they were going to go on the banana and I was going to ride in the real boat and take pictures, but when one of them was happy after two rides, I happily stepped up. The first night, we preordered a vegetarian meal for all. It was a full loaf of bread. The middle had been cut out and it was stuffed with a delicious bean and vegetable stew. Only one person finished.
And now it’s on to Botswana! I’m still not very sure what to expect. We were all supposed to arrive Aug. 10, but I’m obviously a day late now. I should get in around 7:30 am though, so I don’t think I’ll ruin plans too much. I think we have a few days of orientation in Gaborone (the capital city, pronounced Hab-or-o-nee) before heading out to the village for our first homestay. I think I’ll have internet the first few days while we’re doing orientation, but then don’t expect to be online for at least 5 or 6 weeks. I’ll be getting credit for four classes total: Setswana language intensive, Contemporary Socio-Cultural Issues in Botswana, Field Work Methodology in Botswana, and a final research project.
There’s a Levine family reunion going on in Tahoe this weekend.... Hi to all my family! I know you’ll all have a wonderful time!! Make sure an extra hand of bridge is played for me!
And Grandpa, HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!
Tionana!!!
Karen
I went to a meeting at the Ministry of Education with Jesse, one of the founders of World Camp. We met with a few different people, just checking in on what they expect from WC and what direction we can go in the future. I was disgusted at the piles of old computers in the hallways of the Ministry. They were no longer being used in the building and were being saved to be sent to schools. But they weren’t stacked neatly; they were literally thrown on top of each other. It’s amazing none of the screens had broken, or maybe the broken ones had been thrown out. Tires were piled up to the ceiling in another hallway on a lower floor.
Another surprise at the MOE: there’s a new school calendar being implemented in 2011 with a break that spans the three months we’re in country. On first thought, a nationwide break would make it hard to teach classes. But, a new idea is to just run “summer camp” like classes. That way, we have free reign to teach how we want. It might be a little more difficult to get students to come in though. A plus? The new calendar takes farming and religious holidays into account. The harvest season is a break, and days are off if there is a popular religious holiday (both Christian and Muslim).
Safari was, of course, wonderful. We saw elephants, hippos, monkeys galore, giraffes, cervils, hares, lions, and 2 leopards together, which is incredibly rare since they’re normally solitary animals. I was completely frustrated and literally had to bite my tongue when some of the volunteers asked to leave as we were watching the leopards. They were bored and only wanted to see lions. Our guide said we had to stay until another car came and was able to pick up the cats. Once we found the lions, we watched for a few minutes and the volunteers were ready to go again. Why not sit and enjoy looking at such incredible animals for a few minutes? Sunset was incredible. By far one of the best ones I’ve seen. But, since the guide had been pestered so much that we just wanted to see lions, we had our sundowner drinks on the go as we drove on to find the big cats. Then the volunteers complained they hadn’t been able to enjoy the sunset. ARGGG. I just wanted to scream.
The next morning, the six volunteers were going to go on a drive on their own. The plan was for them to make their own breakfasts from the food we’d brought before their drive left at 6. Turns out there was an elephant in front of the room with our food and they couldn’t eat. I would’ve been excited… how many people can say an elephant stood between them and their food? But no, these guys complained. Then they complained because their drive started at 6:30. But that complains legit and completely my fault.
Don’t get me wrong, I loved my volunteers. Sometimes I just forget they’re in high school. I certainly hope I was never bored when my parents took us on safari a few years ago!!
Since I was with Y2Y, I only spent one night at the lake this time. That was probably a good thing, because their attention spans are sometimes a little short. I just wanted to relax for the weekend, but they wanted to do stuff. Since they can’t go anywhere without a coordinator, I walked down the beach in both directions. Of course, it was with two different groups because they can never decide to do anything at the same time so it’s only one trip for the coordinators. I also took a small group into the trading center. That was fun, since it’s certainly different than the villages that aren’t close to Lake Malawi. I also went banana boating with three of the girls. Originally, they were going to go on the banana and I was going to ride in the real boat and take pictures, but when one of them was happy after two rides, I happily stepped up. The first night, we preordered a vegetarian meal for all. It was a full loaf of bread. The middle had been cut out and it was stuffed with a delicious bean and vegetable stew. Only one person finished.
And now it’s on to Botswana! I’m still not very sure what to expect. We were all supposed to arrive Aug. 10, but I’m obviously a day late now. I should get in around 7:30 am though, so I don’t think I’ll ruin plans too much. I think we have a few days of orientation in Gaborone (the capital city, pronounced Hab-or-o-nee) before heading out to the village for our first homestay. I think I’ll have internet the first few days while we’re doing orientation, but then don’t expect to be online for at least 5 or 6 weeks. I’ll be getting credit for four classes total: Setswana language intensive, Contemporary Socio-Cultural Issues in Botswana, Field Work Methodology in Botswana, and a final research project.
There’s a Levine family reunion going on in Tahoe this weekend.... Hi to all my family! I know you’ll all have a wonderful time!! Make sure an extra hand of bridge is played for me!
And Grandpa, HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!
Tionana!!!
Karen
Saturday, July 10, 2010
a typical drive
So much has been going on. But I realized I’ve never written about the typical things I see – only the extraordinary or unusual. So I decided to write down what I saw on our 45 minute bus ride to Mitundu FPS; everything normal and regular. And then I realized just how astonishing it all is.
A police truck that drops off policemen who will stand in the middle of the road waving cars to the shoulder. They don’t have squad cars to follow anyone driving, so they stay stationary. The newly emptied police trucks give locals rides around town, whether for free or a price I don’t know.
A woman with two feet of bananas carefully piled in a tub, perfectly balanced on her head.
Coffin street: hundreds of beautiful coffins and ribbon decorations in every color for funerals that haven’t been held yet – and I barely notice. Death is different here. John, who works in the World Camp house, told us that we fear death too much. It’s a natural part of life that is accepted and even embraced here. Ten minutes further down the road: stone tombstones. And you’d be hard-pressed to find one without a cross on it.
A mother who carries a boy, maybe nine or ten, on her back as she would an infant because he has casts on both legs.
Full goat carcasses hanging from stands on the side of the road fully exposed to car emissions, flies, and the sun.
A group of women pumping water for the day – enough for drinking, cooking, and washing.
I’m shocked to see a young girl, maybe 13, jumping on and clearly flirting with a boy about the same age.
Glad we didn’t get stopped by the police today, even though I know we have a licensed driver and a properly insured bus.
Men pushing their bikes with wood stacked eight feet high because it’s too heavy and unstable to ride.
Waiting at a red light next to a begging man with shoes on his hands because he cannot stand upright and walks on all fours.
Billboards in English next to billboards in Chichewa advertising safe driving, Carlsberg beer, female condoms, Bingu’s new agricultural policies, and paint brands.
Girls in pants remind me of a quote from yesterday’s Nyassa Times: “There is a growing tendency among girls in the country to wear miniskirts, exposing thighs, which force men to rape them.”
Signs advertising for plumbers, electricians, and key makers hand painted on large pieces of wood and nailed to trees: PLUMBER tel: 099725673
Barber shops, where I know kids fear they’ll contract HIV.
Two women, each with a child on her back and a bundle on her head carrying another huge bag between them.
All while I sit in a dirty bus that I’ve complained doesn’t have a tape deck that burns through diesel as if Malawi wasn’t experiencing a fuel shortage.
Telephone lines that run along dirt roads.
Children run beside our bus as long as they can, always chanting azungu.
Brick homes with tin roofs, brick homes with straw roofs, brick homes without roofs.
People chewing sugar cane and thinking it’s cleaning their teeth.
Beautiful cloth blowing on clotheslines.
The line of eight women with their faces hidden by the massive bunches of brush they carry on their heads; at least ten feet long and three feet in diameter.
The village drunk that stumbles along the road.
The flat bed truck with at least forty people crammed in for the ride.
A group of ten sitting in a dust brown field picking ground nuts.
Goats.
Chickens.
Cows.
Dogs.
Donkeys.
Pigs – for variety, and only if you’re lucky.
AVOID AIDS GUYS handwritten on the back of a road sign.
Barbed wire around Bingu’s farm with more than twenty workers picking maize.
Taking the same detour we took in January – will they ever finish the road?
Stopping in the middle of the road to wait for a herd of unattended goats.
A line of three men on bikes with woven baskets on the back.
Forty minutes outside Lilongwe and there’s still telephone wires next to the road. I don’t know where they’re going; no one has any use for them out here.
Kids that wave, although I’ve done nothing to win their admiration.
Traditional skirts. Western shirts. An AYSO jersey.
Trash.
Piles and piles of burning trash.
A graveyard.
And we’re here. A quick 45 minute drive and it’s time for Day 4 at Mitundu FPS.
A police truck that drops off policemen who will stand in the middle of the road waving cars to the shoulder. They don’t have squad cars to follow anyone driving, so they stay stationary. The newly emptied police trucks give locals rides around town, whether for free or a price I don’t know.
A woman with two feet of bananas carefully piled in a tub, perfectly balanced on her head.
Coffin street: hundreds of beautiful coffins and ribbon decorations in every color for funerals that haven’t been held yet – and I barely notice. Death is different here. John, who works in the World Camp house, told us that we fear death too much. It’s a natural part of life that is accepted and even embraced here. Ten minutes further down the road: stone tombstones. And you’d be hard-pressed to find one without a cross on it.
A mother who carries a boy, maybe nine or ten, on her back as she would an infant because he has casts on both legs.
Full goat carcasses hanging from stands on the side of the road fully exposed to car emissions, flies, and the sun.
A group of women pumping water for the day – enough for drinking, cooking, and washing.
I’m shocked to see a young girl, maybe 13, jumping on and clearly flirting with a boy about the same age.
Glad we didn’t get stopped by the police today, even though I know we have a licensed driver and a properly insured bus.
Men pushing their bikes with wood stacked eight feet high because it’s too heavy and unstable to ride.
Waiting at a red light next to a begging man with shoes on his hands because he cannot stand upright and walks on all fours.
Billboards in English next to billboards in Chichewa advertising safe driving, Carlsberg beer, female condoms, Bingu’s new agricultural policies, and paint brands.
Girls in pants remind me of a quote from yesterday’s Nyassa Times: “There is a growing tendency among girls in the country to wear miniskirts, exposing thighs, which force men to rape them.”
Signs advertising for plumbers, electricians, and key makers hand painted on large pieces of wood and nailed to trees: PLUMBER tel: 099725673
Barber shops, where I know kids fear they’ll contract HIV.
Two women, each with a child on her back and a bundle on her head carrying another huge bag between them.
All while I sit in a dirty bus that I’ve complained doesn’t have a tape deck that burns through diesel as if Malawi wasn’t experiencing a fuel shortage.
Telephone lines that run along dirt roads.
Children run beside our bus as long as they can, always chanting azungu.
Brick homes with tin roofs, brick homes with straw roofs, brick homes without roofs.
People chewing sugar cane and thinking it’s cleaning their teeth.
Beautiful cloth blowing on clotheslines.
The line of eight women with their faces hidden by the massive bunches of brush they carry on their heads; at least ten feet long and three feet in diameter.
The village drunk that stumbles along the road.
The flat bed truck with at least forty people crammed in for the ride.
A group of ten sitting in a dust brown field picking ground nuts.
Goats.
Chickens.
Cows.
Dogs.
Donkeys.
Pigs – for variety, and only if you’re lucky.
AVOID AIDS GUYS handwritten on the back of a road sign.
Barbed wire around Bingu’s farm with more than twenty workers picking maize.
Taking the same detour we took in January – will they ever finish the road?
Stopping in the middle of the road to wait for a herd of unattended goats.
A line of three men on bikes with woven baskets on the back.
Forty minutes outside Lilongwe and there’s still telephone wires next to the road. I don’t know where they’re going; no one has any use for them out here.
Kids that wave, although I’ve done nothing to win their admiration.
Traditional skirts. Western shirts. An AYSO jersey.
Trash.
Piles and piles of burning trash.
A graveyard.
And we’re here. A quick 45 minute drive and it’s time for Day 4 at Mitundu FPS.
2 happy stories and 1 sad
Story 1: Visiting William was incredible. He was so nice and informative. I know Blessings, his country manager, from working with World Camp in January. I arranged with Blessings for our group to come to a ceremony at Wimbe Full Primary School, where William went. I thought they were having a sort of “handing over the keys” ceremony for a new windmill that would power the school. Expecting a two hour drive, we were really antsy when we finally arrived after three. There also wasn’t a windmill in sight. Turns out the ceremony was to hand over the keys to a brand new (solar powered!) building built by an NGO and William’s organization, Moving Windmills. Also to our surprise, the people filming William’s documentary (also called Moving Windmills) were there to film. It was their final day of filming after five years. And a group of 18 azungus was definitely going to disrupt the natural chemistry of William’s small village. So they asked we not be present for the ceremony. We agreed, but asked that in return we could see the school, expecting to quickly poke around ourselves. Instead, William and Blessings gave us a full tour. We saw the new bathrooms (one for boys, one for girls, which actually does a huge amount for keeping female enrolment high), new buildings, solar panels, and even the library where William studied windmills after he was forced to drop out of secondary school. William answered all of our questions and was incredibly kind. He just graduated from secondary school in South Africa and will be attending Dartmouth this fall. He hopes to study mechanical engineering. I asked him quite a few questions about the windmills, but was also pretty star struck. (I also had him sign my copy of The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind, which I just happened to bring with me.)
After the tour, we asked to see the actual windmills. Gilbert and Geoffrey, William’s two best childhood friends, walked with us to William’s home and gave us the full tour. We saw the very first windmill he built, which no longer works but is still standing. The second windmill generates power for his home. The third is the biggest; it pumps water to irrigate his father’s fields. The electrical windmill now powers every house owned by a member of William’s extended family.
We met William’s mother as well as his younger sister and brother. I didn’t get to but the rest of our group went into William’s house to see the switch pad that controls the electrical flow. It was incredible to look up and see such beautiful windmills that empowered so many people, all created by one young man.
Story 2: In January, I worked with teachers at the last school we went to, which happened to be really close to the school we were at this week. There were seven teachers total, two of which I became quite close to. One was about five months pregnant. Her name was Ellina. When I told her my sister’s name was Elena, she said we would be sisters as long as I was in Malawi. On Monday, Ellina recognized our Rovers and came to the school we were at. She saw Jaren, another coordinator, and asked for her sister, Karen. It was wonderful to see her again. I can’t describe how surreal it was to see her – and to meet her beautiful two month old son Vincent. I honestly never thought I’d get to see Ellina again, and there she was, standing right in front of me. We talked and caught up for a few minutes before she left. Wednesday, Ednah, another teacher from the same school, also stopped by. It was great to see her too – and find out how she’s been since January. Ednah remembered everyone’s names from the session and asked how we were all doing.
Story 3: My cell phone got stolen at camp yesterday.
After the tour, we asked to see the actual windmills. Gilbert and Geoffrey, William’s two best childhood friends, walked with us to William’s home and gave us the full tour. We saw the very first windmill he built, which no longer works but is still standing. The second windmill generates power for his home. The third is the biggest; it pumps water to irrigate his father’s fields. The electrical windmill now powers every house owned by a member of William’s extended family.
We met William’s mother as well as his younger sister and brother. I didn’t get to but the rest of our group went into William’s house to see the switch pad that controls the electrical flow. It was incredible to look up and see such beautiful windmills that empowered so many people, all created by one young man.
Story 2: In January, I worked with teachers at the last school we went to, which happened to be really close to the school we were at this week. There were seven teachers total, two of which I became quite close to. One was about five months pregnant. Her name was Ellina. When I told her my sister’s name was Elena, she said we would be sisters as long as I was in Malawi. On Monday, Ellina recognized our Rovers and came to the school we were at. She saw Jaren, another coordinator, and asked for her sister, Karen. It was wonderful to see her again. I can’t describe how surreal it was to see her – and to meet her beautiful two month old son Vincent. I honestly never thought I’d get to see Ellina again, and there she was, standing right in front of me. We talked and caught up for a few minutes before she left. Wednesday, Ednah, another teacher from the same school, also stopped by. It was great to see her too – and find out how she’s been since January. Ednah remembered everyone’s names from the session and asked how we were all doing.
Story 3: My cell phone got stolen at camp yesterday.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
another long catchup!
i promised i'd write about the refugee camp, and now i finally will! only 2 weeks later. we didn't bring any of our own field staff because the majority of the refugees we worked with were congolese and didn't speak chichewa. we invited them to come anyway as participants, which turned out to be a wonderful idea. three field staff came and were incredibly involved in our conversations and great resources during discussions. when we first drove in i could see into houses. at first i was glad that most houses were incredibly sturdy and stable. they're made out of bricks with really durable tin roofs. there were beds much nicer than the ones we sleep in during rural homestays during the session (where there often aren't any beds at all so we sleep on reed mats on the floor). then i realized they're so permanent because none of the refugees are expecting to leave anytime soon. we heard later how hard it is to earn money (they're not allowed to hold jobs) and actually get out of the camp. we worked with a church-based group in the camp. and it turns out that the translators they provided spoke a lot of french! i could pick out some of what they were saying. in the morning, we worked with all adults - some members of the church, some hiv+, and some in a care group. we covered the basics. what hiv is, how it's transmitted, what it does to the body, and how to prevent it. we also did both a male and female condom demonstration. during the female condom demo, a woman stood up to ask a question. i've never seen an adult woman ask a question about any sort of condom before. i was so glad she was able to.
we saved the last 45 minutes for a discussion of the camp. we had broken into two groups and my group's discussion was less successful. it morphed into the refugees asking for help. we offered all the information we could, but can't provide jobs or supplies. it's just not what we do. it was heartbreaking to hear them ask for food. the other group of volunteer got a lot more out of their discussion. the refugees in their room told their personal stories of how they had fled their homes and ended up here. i would have loved to have heard the stories, although it would have been incredibly difficult to get through. but i'm almost glad i didn't have the chance to pry into their lives and bring up memories i'm sure they'd like to forget.
jaren, another coordinator, and i also met with five hiv+ women after our discussion was over. it was a very quick meeting - they wanted to thank us for coming and invite us back themselves. they said discrimination is horrible in the camp and asked that next time we come back we fight stigma.
in the afternoon, we were expecting to work with orphans in the camp. it turns out the church is really involved with a village down the road that has a large orphan population. so we all (11 volunteers, 4 coordinators, 3 field staff, about 10 refugees from the church) loaded into our bus and drove about 15 minutes to a nearby malawian village. no one here was a refugee. we sang songs with the kids first. there were way more than we expected. there were also adults who had come to learn from us, although we'd been told there would be kids only. so rachel (another coordinator) and i, talked with the adults. we again went over the very basics of hiv, but they were interested in malaria. they wanted to know if we could bring bed nets and what they could do to stop malaria in their area. we offered all we knew - long clothing, fill in puddles of standing water with dirt - cover windows, but they wanted more. it's frustrating that we did all we could and yet it's not enough.
we're going to go back to the camp next session. we'll expand on what we taught this time and hopefully go a little more in depth. and we'll address stigma. but discrimination is something that we can visit and talk about, but change can't come from us. that's definitely one of the most frustrating things i've had to deal with while being here.
the next week we did homestay one night. rachel and i tented at the school while the volunteers stayed in houses. i tried sugar cane, smashed corn to make nsima, watched volunteers make relish, and carted water. the school planned dances for us that night. they brought out battery powered lights and there was a dance party in the middle of the field under the starts. they made sure all of us got up and danced around the circle.
the next morning, before camp, we played a game of futbol against all the kids we worked with. we lost. but only 1-0. it was a great game and we all really loved playing. i think the students loved watching us try to play too.
last weekend we stayed at the lake. it was super windy the whole time. we had planned on taking a boat out to a little island where there's great cliff jumping, but they wouldn't let us. we went swimming anyway. i went 3 times. the waves were bigger than most i've been in in california. and it was wonderful. we also walked down the beach by all the boats. and we went into town one afternoon. we watched a soccer game for 20 minutes. the men were adults and there were over 100 people watching.
we walked through the market where everyone knew Baker, the founder of world camp. it's amazing that he's literally known throughout malawi.
this week we only did 3 days at the school because volunteers are leaving friday and we wanted to give them a day off (thursday) to pack and hang out. except that an incredibly opportunity came up for tomorrow and it's going to be a packed day anyway. william, a malawian boy who built a windmill from scraps he found in his village and powered his house is dedicating a new windmill to wimbe primary school (where he went) tomorrow. blessings, who was a translator in january who i was very close to, is william's country manager and invited us to come to the ceremony. it starts at 9 and is two hours away, so we're leaving at 7. it'll probably go until around 1ish. then we'll stay and meet william and his family. i also really want to see the first windmill he built for his house. he has an incredible story and i'm excited to meet a real celebrity tomorrow!
other than that, everything has been great. i've been crazy busy organizing stuff and going to camp everyday, but i still love it. i've gotten to go back to the fabric market a few times, as well as the vegetable and wood markets. morning songs at camp everyday are great, and student presentations on day 4 make what we do worthwhile. volunteers start to leave friday and the house will feel so lonely! new volunteers start arriving the 26, and then second session starts! no down time at all!
i finally updated pictures to facebook! check 'em out!
we saved the last 45 minutes for a discussion of the camp. we had broken into two groups and my group's discussion was less successful. it morphed into the refugees asking for help. we offered all the information we could, but can't provide jobs or supplies. it's just not what we do. it was heartbreaking to hear them ask for food. the other group of volunteer got a lot more out of their discussion. the refugees in their room told their personal stories of how they had fled their homes and ended up here. i would have loved to have heard the stories, although it would have been incredibly difficult to get through. but i'm almost glad i didn't have the chance to pry into their lives and bring up memories i'm sure they'd like to forget.
jaren, another coordinator, and i also met with five hiv+ women after our discussion was over. it was a very quick meeting - they wanted to thank us for coming and invite us back themselves. they said discrimination is horrible in the camp and asked that next time we come back we fight stigma.
in the afternoon, we were expecting to work with orphans in the camp. it turns out the church is really involved with a village down the road that has a large orphan population. so we all (11 volunteers, 4 coordinators, 3 field staff, about 10 refugees from the church) loaded into our bus and drove about 15 minutes to a nearby malawian village. no one here was a refugee. we sang songs with the kids first. there were way more than we expected. there were also adults who had come to learn from us, although we'd been told there would be kids only. so rachel (another coordinator) and i, talked with the adults. we again went over the very basics of hiv, but they were interested in malaria. they wanted to know if we could bring bed nets and what they could do to stop malaria in their area. we offered all we knew - long clothing, fill in puddles of standing water with dirt - cover windows, but they wanted more. it's frustrating that we did all we could and yet it's not enough.
we're going to go back to the camp next session. we'll expand on what we taught this time and hopefully go a little more in depth. and we'll address stigma. but discrimination is something that we can visit and talk about, but change can't come from us. that's definitely one of the most frustrating things i've had to deal with while being here.
the next week we did homestay one night. rachel and i tented at the school while the volunteers stayed in houses. i tried sugar cane, smashed corn to make nsima, watched volunteers make relish, and carted water. the school planned dances for us that night. they brought out battery powered lights and there was a dance party in the middle of the field under the starts. they made sure all of us got up and danced around the circle.
the next morning, before camp, we played a game of futbol against all the kids we worked with. we lost. but only 1-0. it was a great game and we all really loved playing. i think the students loved watching us try to play too.
last weekend we stayed at the lake. it was super windy the whole time. we had planned on taking a boat out to a little island where there's great cliff jumping, but they wouldn't let us. we went swimming anyway. i went 3 times. the waves were bigger than most i've been in in california. and it was wonderful. we also walked down the beach by all the boats. and we went into town one afternoon. we watched a soccer game for 20 minutes. the men were adults and there were over 100 people watching.
we walked through the market where everyone knew Baker, the founder of world camp. it's amazing that he's literally known throughout malawi.
this week we only did 3 days at the school because volunteers are leaving friday and we wanted to give them a day off (thursday) to pack and hang out. except that an incredibly opportunity came up for tomorrow and it's going to be a packed day anyway. william, a malawian boy who built a windmill from scraps he found in his village and powered his house is dedicating a new windmill to wimbe primary school (where he went) tomorrow. blessings, who was a translator in january who i was very close to, is william's country manager and invited us to come to the ceremony. it starts at 9 and is two hours away, so we're leaving at 7. it'll probably go until around 1ish. then we'll stay and meet william and his family. i also really want to see the first windmill he built for his house. he has an incredible story and i'm excited to meet a real celebrity tomorrow!
other than that, everything has been great. i've been crazy busy organizing stuff and going to camp everyday, but i still love it. i've gotten to go back to the fabric market a few times, as well as the vegetable and wood markets. morning songs at camp everyday are great, and student presentations on day 4 make what we do worthwhile. volunteers start to leave friday and the house will feel so lonely! new volunteers start arriving the 26, and then second session starts! no down time at all!
i finally updated pictures to facebook! check 'em out!
Friday, June 11, 2010
Things have been beyond crazy at the WC house. I stayed home from camp today to get work done, and end up writing a blog post! But it’s a great chance to take a quick break from logistics and do something else. I’ll work backwards…. Today’s Day 4 of our third camp. That means presentations and solar ovens – definitely some of my favorite things, and I wish I could be there. I also stayed home yesterday to work on a packet for Field Staff orientation that I’m putting together. I got a lot of work done on that, plus learned how to do some accounting.
Today, I’m planning tomorrow’s outreach project. We’re going to Dzaleka Refugee Camp in Dowa District. There are ten nationalities represented at the camp, but the group we’ll be working with is primarily Congolese (which means they speak Swahili, not Chichewa like the Malawians we typically work with!). So the organization is providing their own interpreters. In the morning, we’re going to work with a group of 45 adults. 10 are staff members, 15 are members of an HIV/AIDS awareness club, and 20 are HIV+ people. They asked for basic education because the camp is really far behind in terms of awareness and information. Malawi as a whole has been doing really well recently in raising awareness and increasing education, but the camp is about 15 years behind the rest of the country. While HIV rates are lower than they are in the rest of the country, the camp is considered high risk because it’s closed.
In the afternoon, we’re going to work with 85 kids who were either orphaned by AIDS or are HIV or AIDS positive themselves. They’re ages 7-15. I’m trying to figure out what to do with them right now, and can’t decide if games and teambuilding activities would be more beneficial than education because of the age variance, or if teaching basic information would be better. I’ll definitely post about the day tomorrow or Sunday.
Last weekend we went on safari in Zambia. It was wonderful. We stayed at a place called Flatdogs that I hadn’t been to before (and that has delicious food!!). We camped in tents and had to be escorted to bed each night by guards because hippos walked through every night. We were really close to the river, so they’d come out at night and keep the grass short. Elephants walked through all the time too, so we had to make sure there was enough space between our tents for an elephant to fit. It was crazy to wake up in the middle of the night and hear hippos chomping on grass. They’re incredibly loud eaters. There were also a number of monkeys that would grab any food or items left lying around. When I was sitting by the pool one day, I left my watch on a table. I got up for awhile to throw a football and when I got back it was gone. Luckily, someone found it in the grass, but I’m pretty sure it was the monkeys. I also saw a HUGE monitor lizard in the middle of the camp ground. I was by myself and didn’t have a camera. It was 3-4 feet and I was pretty scared, it watched me walk by.
I went on one night drive and saw some amazing animals. We saw a herd of buffalo, a single male lion, tons of impala, giraffes, hippos, water buck, elephants, zebras, kudu, lots of birds, baboons, velvet monkeys, crocodiles… it was great. With 14 WC people on drives, we took two cars. We met up for sundowners and took tons of pictures while we watched the African sunset. It was great.
The week before I went to camp every day. We were at a great school that was really excited to have us and the students were all wonderful. I do miss being in the classroom though. Now, I get to sit in on classes and watch the volunteer teachers and Field Staff interact with the kids. Plus I get to sit in on teacher meetings, which is incredibly interesting and informative. They’re always so open and willing to discuss the issues.
On the third day of camp during Empowerment (where we split up male and female students), one of the classes heard that a girl at the school had been impregnated by the head teacher and had left. I’m not sure what to believe – the head teacher was a wonderful man who asked us to come and teach at his school. All he talked about was change and education. I know that stuff like that happens throughout Malawi, but I’m not sure it happened at this school. It was kind of a reminder of why we’re – to help the kids learn about HIV and environmental degradation, and what they can do to stop the issues, protect themselves, and raise awareness.
Working with the teachers is supposed to increase the sustainability of our programs – if the teachers know the information, they can continue to teach it. I only hope a man who requests WC comes to teach his students really does have their best interests at heart.
So that’s about it for now. Pictures from the session are up on WC’s facebook page, plus I think a volunteer is going to post about safari tonight on the WC blog, so check that out too. If the internet was any faster, I’d put pictures up myself.
Elena’s newest discovery: right now, the four Clark family members are on 3 different continents!
Today, I’m planning tomorrow’s outreach project. We’re going to Dzaleka Refugee Camp in Dowa District. There are ten nationalities represented at the camp, but the group we’ll be working with is primarily Congolese (which means they speak Swahili, not Chichewa like the Malawians we typically work with!). So the organization is providing their own interpreters. In the morning, we’re going to work with a group of 45 adults. 10 are staff members, 15 are members of an HIV/AIDS awareness club, and 20 are HIV+ people. They asked for basic education because the camp is really far behind in terms of awareness and information. Malawi as a whole has been doing really well recently in raising awareness and increasing education, but the camp is about 15 years behind the rest of the country. While HIV rates are lower than they are in the rest of the country, the camp is considered high risk because it’s closed.
In the afternoon, we’re going to work with 85 kids who were either orphaned by AIDS or are HIV or AIDS positive themselves. They’re ages 7-15. I’m trying to figure out what to do with them right now, and can’t decide if games and teambuilding activities would be more beneficial than education because of the age variance, or if teaching basic information would be better. I’ll definitely post about the day tomorrow or Sunday.
Last weekend we went on safari in Zambia. It was wonderful. We stayed at a place called Flatdogs that I hadn’t been to before (and that has delicious food!!). We camped in tents and had to be escorted to bed each night by guards because hippos walked through every night. We were really close to the river, so they’d come out at night and keep the grass short. Elephants walked through all the time too, so we had to make sure there was enough space between our tents for an elephant to fit. It was crazy to wake up in the middle of the night and hear hippos chomping on grass. They’re incredibly loud eaters. There were also a number of monkeys that would grab any food or items left lying around. When I was sitting by the pool one day, I left my watch on a table. I got up for awhile to throw a football and when I got back it was gone. Luckily, someone found it in the grass, but I’m pretty sure it was the monkeys. I also saw a HUGE monitor lizard in the middle of the camp ground. I was by myself and didn’t have a camera. It was 3-4 feet and I was pretty scared, it watched me walk by.
I went on one night drive and saw some amazing animals. We saw a herd of buffalo, a single male lion, tons of impala, giraffes, hippos, water buck, elephants, zebras, kudu, lots of birds, baboons, velvet monkeys, crocodiles… it was great. With 14 WC people on drives, we took two cars. We met up for sundowners and took tons of pictures while we watched the African sunset. It was great.
The week before I went to camp every day. We were at a great school that was really excited to have us and the students were all wonderful. I do miss being in the classroom though. Now, I get to sit in on classes and watch the volunteer teachers and Field Staff interact with the kids. Plus I get to sit in on teacher meetings, which is incredibly interesting and informative. They’re always so open and willing to discuss the issues.
On the third day of camp during Empowerment (where we split up male and female students), one of the classes heard that a girl at the school had been impregnated by the head teacher and had left. I’m not sure what to believe – the head teacher was a wonderful man who asked us to come and teach at his school. All he talked about was change and education. I know that stuff like that happens throughout Malawi, but I’m not sure it happened at this school. It was kind of a reminder of why we’re – to help the kids learn about HIV and environmental degradation, and what they can do to stop the issues, protect themselves, and raise awareness.
Working with the teachers is supposed to increase the sustainability of our programs – if the teachers know the information, they can continue to teach it. I only hope a man who requests WC comes to teach his students really does have their best interests at heart.
So that’s about it for now. Pictures from the session are up on WC’s facebook page, plus I think a volunteer is going to post about safari tonight on the WC blog, so check that out too. If the internet was any faster, I’d put pictures up myself.
Elena’s newest discovery: right now, the four Clark family members are on 3 different continents!
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Again, definitely check out World Camp's blog to see shorter, close-to-daily posts of what we're up to here. (http://www.worldcampforkids.blogspot.com) Plus there's a few pictures!!
We got back about an hour ago from hiking Mt. Nkhoma, the same mountain I hiked in January. The difference in appearance was crazy! I barely recognized the path. I got about 2/3 of the way up and hung out there for awhile with a volunteer who wasn't keen on reaching the top.... which was just fine with me!! We had a picnic lunch on a rock before heading back down and eventually meeting the rest of the group at the van. Tonight, we're going out to dinner at an Indian restaurant called Huts. mmmm delicious!!
This past week was incredible. I forgot how much I missed being at schools. Being a coordinator is hard! There were so many times I wanted to jump in front of the class and teach again. But it was also great to be able to watch students and volunteer teachers get more comfortable with each day. I did get to sit in on a little of the teacher meetings, which was wonderful. The majority of the teachers were great - very interested in really teaching their kids about HIV and obviously dedicated. There was one, though, who broke my heart. His name was Harold. This week was a holiday week, so every student and teacher was there voluntarily. Harold, however, showed up drunk on Monday. He sat in on the meeting and made a few comments during the day. It was upsetting to see that although he was not praised by the other teachers, they did nothing to have him leave. I didn't get to go to camp on Tuesday, but he was more drunk than the first day. Wednesday, when I did go back, he only showed up to eat lunch and could barely walk in a straight line. While I hope he was only sitting in on the meeting and isn't actually a teacher, I'm fairly certain he is. It was hard to realize that he probably teaches his class like that everyday. There is such a shortage of teachers in Malawi that even an obvious alcoholic is not fired.
There were two teachers who were involved in a local Community Based Organization (CBO) where we worked on Friday as part of an outreach project. One, Emmanuel, was amazing. He really wanted to work to get the facts out into the community and start to break down the stigma surrounding HIV. He was wonderful to talk to. The CBO is just a few years old. A village headman donated a plot of land to them a few years ago so they could build an office, but it is still just empty land. They are currently building new bricks and taking apart old buildings to try to build an office. On Friday, when we worked with the CBO, we worked with staff, village headmen, and a group of people living with HIV. It was wonderful to hear their stories.
The reason I didn't go to camp on Tuesday is because I was interviewing local high school students who will be Field Interns for second session. They'll work with the high school students that come over from the US, and I am SO EXCITED to get to work with them. It's a volunteer position, so the kids are really dedicated to and interested in the issues. They all just graduated from an SAT class and are hoping to go to college this fall or next. They're all applying to schools in Europe and the States.... hopefully they'll get in!!
So that's just about all I have now.... I hope everyone's doing really well!!!
Just one more thing; my favorite quote of the week came from Tonnex, the director of the CBO we worked with on Friday: "We are capable of understanding."
We got back about an hour ago from hiking Mt. Nkhoma, the same mountain I hiked in January. The difference in appearance was crazy! I barely recognized the path. I got about 2/3 of the way up and hung out there for awhile with a volunteer who wasn't keen on reaching the top.... which was just fine with me!! We had a picnic lunch on a rock before heading back down and eventually meeting the rest of the group at the van. Tonight, we're going out to dinner at an Indian restaurant called Huts. mmmm delicious!!
This past week was incredible. I forgot how much I missed being at schools. Being a coordinator is hard! There were so many times I wanted to jump in front of the class and teach again. But it was also great to be able to watch students and volunteer teachers get more comfortable with each day. I did get to sit in on a little of the teacher meetings, which was wonderful. The majority of the teachers were great - very interested in really teaching their kids about HIV and obviously dedicated. There was one, though, who broke my heart. His name was Harold. This week was a holiday week, so every student and teacher was there voluntarily. Harold, however, showed up drunk on Monday. He sat in on the meeting and made a few comments during the day. It was upsetting to see that although he was not praised by the other teachers, they did nothing to have him leave. I didn't get to go to camp on Tuesday, but he was more drunk than the first day. Wednesday, when I did go back, he only showed up to eat lunch and could barely walk in a straight line. While I hope he was only sitting in on the meeting and isn't actually a teacher, I'm fairly certain he is. It was hard to realize that he probably teaches his class like that everyday. There is such a shortage of teachers in Malawi that even an obvious alcoholic is not fired.
There were two teachers who were involved in a local Community Based Organization (CBO) where we worked on Friday as part of an outreach project. One, Emmanuel, was amazing. He really wanted to work to get the facts out into the community and start to break down the stigma surrounding HIV. He was wonderful to talk to. The CBO is just a few years old. A village headman donated a plot of land to them a few years ago so they could build an office, but it is still just empty land. They are currently building new bricks and taking apart old buildings to try to build an office. On Friday, when we worked with the CBO, we worked with staff, village headmen, and a group of people living with HIV. It was wonderful to hear their stories.
The reason I didn't go to camp on Tuesday is because I was interviewing local high school students who will be Field Interns for second session. They'll work with the high school students that come over from the US, and I am SO EXCITED to get to work with them. It's a volunteer position, so the kids are really dedicated to and interested in the issues. They all just graduated from an SAT class and are hoping to go to college this fall or next. They're all applying to schools in Europe and the States.... hopefully they'll get in!!
So that's just about all I have now.... I hope everyone's doing really well!!!
Just one more thing; my favorite quote of the week came from Tonnex, the director of the CBO we worked with on Friday: "We are capable of understanding."
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